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Into The Earth: A Wine Cave Renaissance

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26 For much of the wine industry's deep history, it has been known that a cool dark environment with constant temperatures between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal for aging wine. In warm climates, such as northern California, the temperature inside caves averages about 58 degrees. Humidity levels between 70 and 90 percent are beneficial to reducing evaporation of wine. During the course of aging wine in 60-gallon barrels, a loss of four gallons or more per year can occur. In a humid wine cave these losses are reduced to about one gallon or less per barrel—a considerable savings for makers of premium wine. As in all construction projects, much depends on budget and vision, but going into the earth brings in the unknown. Despite the intense study of the geology, an unexpected seam of mud or current of water or gargantuan boulder may be encountered, shifting the whole approach and design. Digging a wine cave, therefore, is part art, part science. Some caves are simple, straight tunnels; some have graceful curves; others are vast underground, maze-like complexes exceeding 40,000 square feet. Several wineries are completely underground. A number of the caves have special underground chambers for wine libraries, dinners and events. These modern wine caves are like nothing built before. The seeds of the modern wine-cave industry began to germinate in 1970 when the Swiss chocolate company Nestlé purchased Beringer Vineyards. Napa would soon burst with opportunities to dig.

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